'A fringe of gold on a beggar's mantle' was how James II, King of Scots (1437-1460), described the East Neuk of Fife with its burghs built around sheltered bays and rich farmland. Trade in salted fish, coal and linen with Europe made all these communities among the richest in Scotland, in the days when Scotland was independent and free.

 

It is one of the East Neuk burghs we visit this week - Pittenweem - a town which continues the long tradition of fishing, indeed Pittenweem is now the main fishing centre of this delightful part of Scotland. Pittenweem's history dates back to the 7th century - indeed its name is of Pictish origins and means 'place (pit) by or of the cave (weem)', where it is said St Fillan chose to live while he converted the local Picts to Christianity. Legend has it that St Fillan had a luminous left arm, allowing him to work in the dark confines of the cave. Today you can still see the cave, in Cove Wynd, with the Saint's well and alter. However it is St Adrian who is the town's Patron Saint. He arrived from Hungary with his own band of Christian martyrs and was killed on the Isle of May in 872 during a raid by the Danes. The Pittenweem coat of arms represents St Adrian being rowed ashore from the Isle of May.

 

The town's eccleiastical connections were continued in medieval times when the monks of the St Ethernan's Priory on the Isle of May were granted lands around Pittenweem - the monks moved their base to Pittenweem Priory in the 13th century to escape maurauding pirates. The remodelled remains of the priory still stand on private property in Cove Wynd and Pittenweem Parish Kirk was built on the site of the old priory church in 1588-89.

 

The village which grew up around the priory, was made a Royal Burgh in 1541; the Tolbooth Tower was built as part of the Parish Church in 1588. Here the burgh council held meetings in the first floor chamber. Below them was the town jail, where a woman was imprisoned in 1705 after being arrested in a witch-hunt - one of the last outbreaks of witch-persecution in Scotland, which resulted in her death.

 

The Mercat Cross, a symbol of a Royal burgh, stands against the west wall of the Tolbooth Tower. it was first erected in the Marygate, probably at the junction with Kirkgate. As a burgh, Pittenweem held weekly markets, where farmers sold their produce, and several annual fairs. Linseed and shoes were sold on Lady Day (25 March), wool at the Lammas Fair in August and cattle at the the Martinmas Fair on 11 November.

 

Pittenweem wa first mentioned as a port in 1228. The outer pier is the oldest, first built in stone around the mid-16th century; the middle pier was built in 1771 by Sir John Anstruther and the West Pier was added when the fishing industry was booming in the 19th century. Today the harbour is at the centre of the East Neuk fishing industry and is busiest early in the morning when the catches are being sold at the new Fish market, built in 1994.

 

Pittenweem has also made its mark on the Scottish Arts scene and the annual arts festival, now in its 22nd year, starts tomorrow, Saturday 7 August and continues until Sunday 15 August 2004. The Pittenweem Arts Festival has grown steadily since 1982 in size and reputation and this year offers its biggest ever line-up of attractions so far. There are over 80 art exhibitions to visit, plus a week-long programme of music, drama and film, at venues around the Royal Burgh and its ancient harbour. Children are well catered for with sculpture, dance and puppet workshops, storytelling and painting competitions. With something for everyone visit www.pittenweemartsfestival.co.uk for full details.

 

Seafood also plays a major part in the festival including a full open day at Pittenweem Fish market on Saturday 15 August where you can enjoy cookery demonstrations (10am-4pm) whilst visiting the Pittenweem Arts Festival. Visit www.east-neuk-seafood.co.uk for details of Seafood Celebrations in the East Neuk. Our recipe for this week must reflect the major industry in Pittenweem and Summer Fish is just the ticket.

 

Summer Fish

 

Ingredients : 4 to 6 fillets of sole or plaice (skinned); salt and freshly ground black pepper; butter and lemon juice

 

Sauce ingredients : 4 oz (125 g) cottage cheese; 2 hard boiled egg yolks, sieved; 2 tablespoons cream; salt and pepper

 

Brush fillets with butter and lemon juice, lightly salt and pepper. Roll them up from head to tail, secure with wooden cocktail sticks. Place on a heatproof plate cover and steam gently for about fifteen minutes, until fish is just cooked, but still firm. Set aside to cool. Sauce :- Rub the cottage cheese through a sieve into a bowl. Blend in the sieved egg yolks, cream, salt and pepper. To serve, place fillets on individual plates and add sauce (slice of lemon and parsley to decorate). Serve cold.