Although the custom is passing – probably due to television and organised events, both indoors and outside, the heart of Hogmanay is the tradition of first-footing. The choice of the first person to cross the threshold in the New Year is very important as they represent luck, good or bad, for the year ahead, therefore a good choice is essential. The traditional first-foot has to be male, tall, dark-haired, but not a doctor, minister or grave-digger. Preferably a fine physical specimen, but also, and perhaps more importantly, should be generous, good-tempered and liked by all. Was there ever such a paragon of virtue? The first-foot must also bear the all-important bottle, a lump of coal and cake, and a suitable gift. One bonus for the first-foot is that he can claim a kiss from every woman in the house.

This week’s recipe is a perfect choice for a refreshing dessert for New Year’s Day – Caledonian Cream. It uses a great Scottish ingredient – marmalade – which has been a popular Scottish cookery favourite since its invention in Dundee 200 years ago

Caledonia Cream

Ingredients for the cream:  4oz cream cheese (about half a cup); 4 fluid ounces double cream (about half a cup); 1 tablespoon marmalade (thick, bitter marmalade is suggested but use what you have); 2 tablespoons brandy or rum; 2 teaspoons lemon juice; Sugar to taste

Ingredients for base:  4 oranges, segmented and the pith removed

Method:  Blend all the ingredients for the cream in a liquidiser till smooth. Place the oranges in four long-stemmed glasses and, if you want, add a teaspoon of brandy (or rum) to these. Add the cream on top. Garnish with some orange zest (boil for a few minutes in water to reduce the bitterness). Serve chilled.